Before you start

Pergo laminate flooring materials are delivered with instructions in the form of illustrations. The texts below provide explanations for the illustrations, and are divided in three areas: Preparation, Installation and Cleaning instructions. We recommend that you read through this information carefully while studying each illustration. In case of doubts or questions please contact your dealer or technical services. The use of the original Pergo accessories is strongly recommended to benefit from the full Pergo warranty.

Check your order

Pergo laminate floors can be bought in different formats, decors and qualities. Make sure you have received the flooring that you ordered before starting the installation. It is always a good idea to store one end label together with your receipt.

Allow the floor to acclimatize

After receiving the floor packs these should be acclimatized, unopened and stored in a flat position free from the wall and flooring prior to installation. We recommend storing them at normal room temperature (between 15-20 degrees C / 59-68 degrees F) and a relative humidity (RH) between 30 – 75% for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation.

Prepare the underfloor

Pergo laminate flooring must be installed on a solid, selfsupporting subfloor, wood flooring or floors covered with seamless, undamaged vinyl. In case of textile floor coverings, however, both the textile flooring and the eventual underlayment must be removed.

Check for unevenness

The entire subfloor must be carefully checked for any unevenness. Using a 1 m straight edge, make sure there are no unevenness of more than 2mm. Also make sure there are no “peaks” higher than 1.2mm within a 250mm radius. In case of sand or grind peaks, use self-leveling compound as needed to achieve correct flatness. Let this cure and dry before installation. Ask your dealer for advice.

Avoid the risk of squeaking

After checking the subfloor for unevenness, carefully vacuum the entire surface. To avoid risk of squeaking, secure any loose particleboard, OSB, fiberboard, timber planks etc. with screws.

Install the underlay

To achieve optimal sound protection, best possible walking comfort, to avoid squeaking in joints and to level out minor unevenness in the subfloor an appropriate Pergo underlayment is strongly recommended. Ask your dealer for advice. If other than Pergo underlays are used or if the chosen Pergo underlay does not have a vapour barrier, a 0,2mm PE-film has to be installed as a minimum damp protection if such is needed (see ill.10). The PE-film must be overlapping in the seams at least 200mm.

Avoid wet rooms!

Pergo laminate flooring must not be installed in a typical wet room or in rooms with a floor drain.

No nails, screws or silicone!

Pergo laminate flooring is designed to be installed as a floating floor to allow natural expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity. To achieve the benefits of a floating floor and to avoid possible gaps, squeaking etc. never fasten the floor with nail, screws, silicone etc. Pergo laminate flooring must not be installed directly on floor joists.

Remember the vapor barrier

Mineral subfloors such as concrete must be sufficiently dry prior to installation. (<2,5% CM / 75% Tramex). If the moisture content is higher, or may become higher, other types of damp proofing like Pergo MoisturBloc must be used. Ask your dealer for advice. A vapour barrier must be used when installing Pergo on mineral subfloors regardless the age of the subfloor. Pergo Smart Underlay+ and Pergo Professional SoundBloc have an appropriate vapour barrier built-in.

Underfloor heating

When installing Pergo laminate on under floor heating a vapour barrier always must be put down before recommended underlay is installed. We recommend using one of the Pergo underlays which have a vapour barrier included. Your dealer or installer of the underfloor heating system must guarantee that the surface temperature never exceed 28 degrees C.

Make room for natural movement

A Pergo laminate floor is mainly composed of natural wood and will naturally expand and contract upon changes in the relative humidity. The dimensional variation of the installed floor will almost be equal in length and width. At 20°C and a relative humidity, RH, between 40-60%, the movement is minimal. Pergo laminate flooring is produced and delivered with a moisture content to cope with a RH between 30-60%. In dry climate, for example in the Nordics during winter time, the RH might drop below 30% and in summertime rise above 70%. This will create movements in the floor surface. To secure enough clearance for the natural movements and to avoid possible open joints, squeaking etc. always keep a dilatation joint of 5mm average to walls, thresholds, staircases, pipes etc. during installation. Use the spacers of the installation kit to keep the right clearance. Installing in winter time in very low RH, the clearance to the wall should be lowered to 3mm since the floor panels will shrink, and if installing in high RH climate the clearance should be raised to 8mm since the floor panels will expand. The clearance must be left open and may NOT be filled by any sealant, silicone or other adhesive. Never fasten the floor with nails, glue, screws or in any other way.

Installation in large rooms

Due to the fact that all types of wood material by nature will shrink and expand and cope to the changes in relative humidity and temperature we keep as a general rule not to install Pergo laminate in room size more than 13×13 meter. If the surface to cover is bigger, ask the dealer or Pergo technical service about options. It is mandatory to install T-moldings in any doorway. In typical T – L or U – shaped rooms it may also be necessary to install a dilatation joint. Ask for advice in case of doubt.

5-in-1 solutions

A Pergo 5-in-1 molding is a perfect solution in situations like illustrated. This molding can also take care of transition as well as finishing edges against vertical surfaces such as thresholds, sliding door frames etc. (End molding). When using the 5-in-1 molding, always remember to keep the right dilatation gap between the installed floor and the metal track.

Collect your tools

Pergo laminate floors are easy to install and require no expensive specialty tools. In addition to a few common DIY tools (folding rule, pencil, hammer, handsaw or jigsaw, carpenters square and possible power drill and working gloves), you only need a Pergo Installation Kit containing a tapping block, pull bar and spacers. Be sure you have all tools available before starting the installation.

Cut carefully

When cutting the Pergo plank, be sure you are not creating splinters or chipping when cutting. If using a hand saw, keep the decorative surface faced up, and if using a jigsaw keep the decorative surface down.

Check for damage

Every Pergo plank is methodically checked for any imperfections before being packed. Still, packs or planks can be damaged during transportation or when the packs are opened. Do not install a plank with a damaged surface, edge or click joint. Carefully inspect each plank before and during the installation in good light conditions. An installed plank is considered as accepted, and can not be claimed.

Measure carefully

Before starting, carefully measure the length and the width of the room to plan a precise layout to achieve a balanced appearance of the floor. This is very important when installing typical tile decors. This will ensure also you won’t end up with the last row being too narrow. If the last row would be less than 40mm, the installation will be easier if you cut down the planks of the first row in the length.

Choose direction

Often the installation is done parallel to the long walls of the room. The most common direction of installation for all type of laminate floors is from left to right, and this information is referring to an installation from left to right. The planks should be installed facing the tongue side (A) to the wall. Always remember the spacers! Thanks to the PerfectFoldTM 3.0 patent, the installation is very easy. This patent is off great use when dismantling a plank if needed without destroying the connection mechanism. The end joint can be assembled in different ways by folding down, angling, sliding or tapping in horizontally. The quickest, easiest and most secure way is by folding down.

Get off to a good start

Narrow down the width of the planks of the first row (ref. ill 18) or as a minimum cut off the tongue (ref ill. 19) to achieve the right distance to the wall. If the wall is curved/uneven, the first row has to be cut and coped to the contour off the wall. Use spacers! Cut off the tongue on the first plank also on the short side. This plank will then have the plastic insert in the end to the right, on the groove side.

For Pergo Modern Plank – Sensation, the plastic insert is on the tongue side.

The installation procedure for both click-systems is exactly the same.

Rotate to join planks

The easiest way to connect the planks is by a rotating fold down movement. Lift the connecting plank up in an angle of 20-30 degrees, push it into the long side groove and slide it gently to the left until the plank ends meets. Push the plank firmly downwards to the floor, and the PerfectFoldTM 3.0 patent will lock the joint perfectly in the end. Always control each joint before continuing. Use the Pergo tapping block gently to tighten up small gaps if needed.

Keep the distance

Install the first 2 rows in accordance to the illustration. We recommend the overlap/staggering between end joints to be about 1/3 of the plank length, but never less than 300mm. Installing the 2 first rows like shown will help to keep a straight edge to start the rest of the installation. The cut off from the first and second row should normally be perfect as starting planks in the third and fourth row. Always remember using the spacers to keep the right distance to walls etc.

Doorway tricks

For a nice finish where the new flooring meets a threshold, we recommend undercutting the moldings of the door. To secure the right cut off, turn a Pergo plank upside down and place it on the floor up to the door frame. Then, place the hand saw flat against the plank and simply cut through the frame/molding as shown. Remove the cut out and vacuum away derbies. You can then simply slide the floor underneath the frame/molding when installing and make a perfect finish.

The final row

For the final row, cut the planks in the length remembering to leave the recommended expansion space and making necessary adjustments to follow the contour of the wall. If there is a door way in this wall, click the plank in on the long side at the side of the undercutted molding, slide/tap the plank underneath and thanks to the PerfectFoldTM 3.0 you are able to lock the end joint by just tapping the end joint together without needing to lift the plank. Control the tightness in the joint, and use the pull bar to secure absolute tightness.

Installing around pipes

To install Pergo domestic Elegance flooring around pipes, carefully measure and mark the planks with the exact centre point for each pipe. Drill a hole at each of the marked points that is equivalent to the diameter of the pipe + 16mm. If located on the long side of the plank, make a 45 degree cut from each hole to the edge of the plank, and then cut between the holes as shown. If located on the end of a plank, make a straight cut across the plank. Install the plank. Then, using Pergo SafeSeal or regular wood glue along the cut edges of the piece you cut out, glue the piece in place where it belongs. Be sure no glue comes between the cut out piece and the subfloor. Use spacers to secure a tight glue joint, and remove any glue or SafeSeal on the floor surface directly with a damp cloth. The gap you have created between the pipes are to ensure the floor can move as expected from season from season, and are NOT to be filled with any sealant, silicone or other adhesive. Use Pergo radiator caps to conceal gaps around radiator pipes. i

Finishing up

Inspect the final surface of the installed floor, remove all spacers and install Pergo wall bases according to the instructions following the wall bases.

Water resistant finishing

For a water resistant finishing, use the elastic waterproof transparant paste (PG Aqua Sealant) and the foamstrip (NEFOAMSTRIP).

Sealing the perimeter

Sealing the perimeter expansion joints combines the compressible PE foamstrip (NEFOAMSTRIP) with diameter 8 to 10 mm and the flexible and waterproof PG Aqua Sealant. Push the PE foam in the expansion joints and apply the transparent PG Aqua Sealant under slight angle towards the Pergo – Sensation floor. Install the wallbases with PG Multiglue (PGGLUE290). Apply the flexible PG Aqua Sealant between wallbases and floor to avoid ingress of water. In places where profiles or wallbases cannot be placed, insert a PE foamstrip (NEFOAMSTRIP) in the expansion joints and finish with elastic paste (PG Sealant). Tip: To make work more cleaner it can be easy to put a tape on the floor before applying the PG Aqua Sealant. This tape can be removed immediatly after applying the PG Aqua Sealant. Spilled PG Aqua Sealant can be removed easily when it is dry.

Finishing the 5- in -1 moulding profile

For a water resistant finishing of the 5- in -1 moulding profile (PGINCP), fix the 5- in -1 moulding profile to the base floor with the PG Multiglue and/or screws. Apply transparent PG Aqua Sealant on the flexible PE foam that is in the expansion joint. Push the 5-in-1 moulding profile in the base profile and the wet PG Aqua Sealant.

Water resistant finishing around pipes

For a perfect water resistant finishing around pipes, use PG Radiator caps, the elastic waterproof transparant paste (PG Aqua Sealant) and the foamstrip (NEFOAMSTRIP). Put the foamstrip in the expansion joint around the pipe. Place the pipe cover and apply PG Aqua Sealant around the radiator cap and around the tubes. This makes the ingress of water impossible.

Extra water protection

To secure extra water protection around the perimeter of the floor and avoid water to enter underneath the panels, apply the flexible PG Aqua Sealant up to the wall base, thresholds, door frames, pipe covers etc.